Do I really need a LOC for my car's system?

General
1

I’ve been getting mixed advice on whether or not I need a line-out converter (LOC) for my car’s sound system. I’ve got a 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the stock sound system, which is just a 6-speaker setup. I added a SKAR Audio subwoofer package with a single SDR 10” sub and an 800-watt amp. I’m not looking for a crazy system, just a bit more bass than the stock setup.

So, should I get a LOC, or is it unnecessary? I’ve heard both sides and would appreciate the input here.

Here’s a breakdown of the speakers in my car:

  • Center dash: 3.5 inch speakers
  • Front door midranges: 3.5 inch speakers
  • Front door tweeters: Tweeters
  • Front door woofers: 6 x 9 inch speakers
2

Yes, you should get one. This one or something similar should work well.
AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver/Line Output Converter: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver/Line Output Converter, Provides Input Signal to Add Amplifier to Factory Car Radio, Impedance Matching, Distortion Free : Musical Instruments

3

West said:
Yes, you should get one. This one or something similar should work well.
AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver/Line Output Converter: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver/Line Output Converter, Provides Input Signal to Add Amplifier to Factory Car Radio, Impedance Matching, Distortion Free : Musical Instruments

Yes! I use the LC2i Pro and it’s definitely worth the money.

4

@Bran
I use the LC1 just for my subs. I also have the LC2 but will only need it if I add a 4-channel amp.

5

West said:
@Bran
I use the LC1 just for my subs. I also have the LC2 but will only need it if I add a 4-channel amp.

Honestly, you only really need the LC2i for both subs, as it has built-in high and low pass filters for the subwoofer.

6

Yes, you will need one. Most aftermarket radios have RCA outputs for subs, but some amps, like yours, don’t. I’d suggest getting the signal for the LOC from either the rear doors or before the factory amp. From what I’ve read, LOCs can handle anywhere from 40w to 400w input depending on the model.

7

@Freddie
I’ve heard that if I do get a LOC, I shouldn’t tap into the wires directly and should get a head unit adapter or a harness adapter instead. What do you think?

8

Zyan said:
@Freddie
I’ve heard that if I do get a LOC, I shouldn’t tap into the wires directly and should get a head unit adapter or a harness adapter instead. What do you think?

A harness adapter would be easy to use and it’s labeled, so that’s a big plus. That’s what I used in mine. You might even be able to find a harness that bypasses the factory amp.

9

Yes, you need a LOC because your amp doesn’t have speaker level input. Some amps do, so if yours did, you wouldn’t need a separate interface.

10

As everyone else has said, definitely go for the LC2i or LC2i Pro. Steve tested a bunch of cheaper line-out converters and the Kicker one was the only decent option, if I remember right. But if you can, go for the AudioControl – I highly recommend it.

Here’s the link if you want to check it out: Amazon.com: Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output : Electronics

11

I tried using both the high-level inputs on my Skar amp and a LOC. The LOC gave me a stronger and clearer signal.