I have a 2016 Honda Accord EX with a sound setup that doesn’t do anything. I recently found a deal that was too good to pass up, so I bought a JL Audio marine M7 12 inch subwoofer for $300. It normally costs over $1200, so I couldn’t pass it up. This is the start of my build. To fit the subwoofer, you need an enclosure that’s 3 feet square, and my Skar Audio enclosure is about 2.8 feet square. The JL 12" can handle 600 Watts RMS at 4 ohms. It’s a Skar Audio 1500 W SKV 2–1500 amplifier.The 1D amplifier can handle 500 watts RMS at 4 ohms. It would be my first time installing sound in a car, but I’ve done a lot of installations on boats. If this machine is pretty easy, do I need to do the “big three” upgrades? 2. When I got the wire kit, I didn’t know it was CCA and not OFC. It’s 0 gauge, so will that be enough? 3. It would be much easier to use a simple line output converter from the rear deck. How much harder would it be to use a DSP? 4. Do I need any special connections to run a DSP? Does it connect to the front of the car, which means I need more wire, or can it run off the back deck like a LOC? 5. Up to this point, what am I not taking into account? Stereos for cars and stereos for boats are not the same thing.
You want to use something to fix the bass, right?
From that year’s OEM radio, the luxury radio has a lot of bass roll off. I’m not sure if all of them did, though.
The lows going to the rear deck are cut off by the car’s internal amplifier. How can I fix this? I think I need a DSP.
Make sure you disable ANC
LOCs are useless. Check the amp or DSP to see if High Level input works. This has been possible for decades. LOCs are just a way to make money by selling you an extra thing that you already have.
It won’t help with bass rolloff to use an amp’s high level input. Additionally, the Skar does not have high-level controls.
Yes I know. Thats why I left my comment about companies that omit high level input. Are usually trash brands. Damn near anything worth the money has high level input.
Not at all.
I always say that ofc is best, and you could really get 8 gauge for that amp. It’s your choice. The 0/1 gauge CCA should be fine.
It will be almost the same to add DSP and loc. You can use your backs, but make sure they can move all the way. You can choose frontt for fading if you want to.
Most of the time, you don’t need any special connections. Just links that fit together well and securely.
Think about getting rid of the trunk rattle with some sound materials.
I have a lot of four-gauge OFC marine grade wire, which is mostly Mercury battery lines for their bigger outboards. Would this work better instead?
Maybe consider some vibration dampening on the amp rack?
So, sound dampeners were made for small split AC condensers.