06 Lexus gx470: First ‘serious’ install, going to start this weekend

General
1

I’m taking a 2006 Lexus GX470. In the hatch of a 1995 VW Golf, I once put together a huge box for a Sundown Audio SA-12 with a 1000w rms monoblock. There was no amp for the door speakers in that car, so Pioneer coaxials were used instead.

I can’t wait to hear how this sounds compared to that. If I don’t like the powered pioneers, I won’t use this amp’s fifth channel, which can push 512w rms into 2ohms. I’m going to sq instead of spl, so I think these 10" subs will work well. But I might want to get a little louder later on…

Do you have any project advice? The whole sound chain is here:

fiio btr7 Bluetooth dac, 4.4mm to dual rca adapter for dsp

bert btx8 dsp, rca to 4 channels of stinger amp, and rca to each pioneer 10" powered sub

It can handle 150w/ch @ 2ohm and 75w/ch @ 4ohm. It’s hooked up to speakers in the front door and the second row of door speakers, and the fifth channel isn’t being used right now.

It sounds great in the front doors with 5.25-inch kappa speakers placed on pillars or maybe in the dash.

6x9" Kappa 693m three-way doors in the second row. The perfects are 3.5 ohms and these are 3 ohms. I think the DSP should be able to handle this difference in power received without any problems, or I can change how the amp works.

A second 100ah deep cycle battery will power everything, and a smart isolator will connect it to the main battery and generator (oem only 130a, but that should be fine). The amp, DSP, and both powered subs will all connect to the same ground.

I don’t want to deal with swapping out my navigation system, so I will just connect my BTRS7DAC straight to my DSPSound source. Do not worry about changing the volume without a knob; everything will work out fine.

Can’t wait to hear how this turns out. I’m also going to put some 130mil anti-vibration tape on the doors and back hatch of my 2006 Lexus GX470. In the hatch of a 1995 VW Golf, I once put together a huge box for a Sundown Audio SA-12 with a 1000w rms monoblock. There was no amp for the door speakers in that car, so Pioneer coaxials were used instead.

I can’t wait to hear how this sounds compared to that. If I don’t like the powered pioneers, I won’t use this amp’s fifth channel, which can push 512w rms into 2ohms. I’m going to sq instead of spl, so I think these 10" subs will work well. But I might want to get a little louder later on…

Do you have any project advice? The whole sound chain is here:

fiio btr7 Bluetooth dac, 4.4mm to dual rca adapter for dsp

bert btx8 dsp, rca to 4 channels of stinger amp, and rca to each pioneer 10" powered sub

It can handle 150w/ch @ 2ohm and 75w/ch @ 4ohm. It’s hooked up to speakers in the front door and the second row of door speakers, and the fifth channel isn’t being used right now.

It sounds great in the front doors with 5.25-inch kappa speakers placed on pillars or maybe in the dash.

6x9" Kappa 693m three-way doors in the second row. The perfects are 3.5 ohms and these are 3 ohms. I think the DSP should be able to handle this difference in power received without any problems, or I can change how the amp works.

A second 100ah deep cycle battery will power everything, and a smart isolator will connect it to the main battery and generator (oem only 130a, but that should be fine). The amp, DSP, and both powered subs will all connect to the same ground.

I don’t want to deal with swapping out my navigation system, so I will just connect my BTRS7DAC straight to my DSPSound source. Do not worry about changing the volume without a knob; everything will work out fine.

Can’t wait to hear how this turns out. I’m also going to put some 130mil anti-vibration on the doors and back hatch.
Screenshot 2024-09-18 130934

7 Likes
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In order to turn my 2006 GX470 into a non-nav, I just got the temperature settings. I may not have seen it in your post, but what headunit do you have? I’m going to do another update like this one soon.

6 Likes
3

In order to turn my 2006 GX470 into a non-nav, I just got the temperature settings. I may not have seen it in your post, but what headunit do you have? I’m going to do another update like this one soon.

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What’s the extra battery for?

1 Like
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I think it is 1100w 110v ac converter, 12v fridge, also want to play music while car is off without draining main battery. This is eventually going to be a road trip/weekender car equipped for camping and related adventures. 2nd battery will be very useful

2 Likes
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It’s where the tweeters and 5.5 Kappas link to. After that, the crossover hooks up to the amp. Are there already 6x9s in the back doors? That’s all I have to say. It seems like a strange choice if you could get the same rear speakers for better sound balance. I think you should stay away from the second battery. There’s no need if you’re only using one amp. I have an old system with two Hifonics Hercules amps and two MB Quart amps. It works fine with a single battery. Set up two batteries for a while, but it started to give me trouble. Do you not have enough room for the woofers? The 10" speaker boxes look like the kind that go behind truck seats. They might not be able to make as much bass as a bigger box with one or both speakers.

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What went wrong with your dual battery problem? I’m adding things to this car like a fridge, internal lights, an ac adapter, and more so I can use it when the engine is off without draining the main battery. The second battery isn’t just for the music system. It seems like a good idea to connect the sound system to the second battery at the same time.

2 Likes
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I’d love to hear how you like that talent. I’m really thinking about getting the 4ch white marine set.

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These pieces of gear look good. I’m interested in what you think of the stinger amp. When I was shopping not long ago, I saw a few. I had no idea that Stinger had moved to amps.

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I had the stinger mt2000.1 for my subs and it’s great. It stayed cool and didn’t complain when i abused it.