I have a Blazer EV with an awful sound system. I swapped all 6 speakers for Morel ones and added a Kicker subwoofer, but the sound was still bad. I didn’t want to spend $1000 CAD on a DSP, but I finally got one and had it tuned by a professional… what a difference. I’m 100% satisfied now. The sound is louder, clearer, and the sub hits way harder.
I have an Equinox EV with the same system. The stock EQ is messed up, and I see people just swapping speakers or adding an amp, but it’s a waste if you don’t EQ the input.
Sage said:
I have an Equinox EV with the same system. The stock EQ is messed up, and I see people just swapping speakers or adding an amp, but it’s a waste if you don’t EQ the input.
I learned that the hard way.
It doesn’t have to be expensive. It really helps to use a measurement microphone too.
Nico said:
It doesn’t have to be expensive. It really helps to use a measurement microphone too.
I’d say a $200 DSP with a UMIK mic is better than an $800 DSP with no mic. It depends on who’s using it, though.
@Hartley
I got an X8 Air and iMM6, started with REQ, but the app I stuck with the longest was actually REW. I’d love a few more EQ bands, but I got it where I wanted in the end. Cost me under $120 total.
@Nico
I got the X8 Air too, and I love it. Also have the iMM6. You get so much for so little money these days.
Alva said:
@Nico
I got the X8 Air too, and I love it. Also have the iMM6. You get so much for so little money these days.
I finished it off with some by-ear tuning, but I never would’ve gotten close without it. Even just balancing the channels. I thought the speaker closest to me was the quietest, but the tweeter on the opposite A-pillar is actually louder. The imaging improved immediately. I can’t believe I missed something so simple.
I was in the same situation. Bought speakers, an amp, and a sub, but wasn’t happy. Then I bought an RF DSR1, learned to use REW, and now everything sounds way better. The factory EQ on my Silverado was terrible. I still have some room for tweaking with the separate channel EQ and time alignment.
@Nico
Are you using a T-harness or a Maestro module for the interconnect between your head unit and the DSR1?
Skyler said:
@Nico
Are you using a T-harness or a Maestro module for the interconnect between your head unit and the DSR1?
It’s a custom loopback harness from AIS (Audio Integration Solutions). It carries the output from the head unit and then feeds the speaker wire back.
Thanks for posting this. I’m about to upgrade the stereo in my 2024 4Runner and couldn’t decide if I really need a DSP or if an advanced LOC would do. It seems like everyone’s saying ‘get a DSP’ for newer cars. I guess this is another ‘buy nice or buy twice’ situation. I think I’ll go with the JL VX1000/5.
@Vesper
I’ll sell you a Helix P Six Mk II for $800 + shipping. It’s a better unit than the JL and more powerful unless you need that 600 x 1 channel. You could power each VC separately on a sub at 2 ohms and get 520 watts depending on the sub.
@Reece
It’s been 20 years since I got into a project like this, so I’m hesitant to step outside my comfort zone. JL inspires confidence, and their DSP interface seems easy to use from what I’ve seen. I’ll check out the Helix. Why are you selling it?
@Vesper
I need 12 channels of DSP, and the P Six only gives me 8. From what I’ve read, JL’s software and processing aren’t that great, though I’m sure it does a decent job. Helix is one of the best for the price. I’ve used Helix for years without issues. It’s like comparing BMW to Ferrari. Oh, the JL only has a 10-band EQ, and the Helix has 30 bands. That’s a big difference. Definitely do some research and let me know. No pressure.
I have a 2016 Accord with the terrible stock stereo. I kept the OEM radio and added an AudioControl LOC with a Kenwood DSP, and now it sounds amazing.