Have intended to purchase the butt connection. Unfortunately, I need the precise gauge of the wire.
You can see a model of the harness in the image.
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Invest in 18-20AWG uninsulated butt connections and encase them in shrink tubing for a professional finish. If you solder your crimps, you’ll get bonus points.
Also, butt connections aren’t necessary. You may just twist them together, solder the connection, then cover with shrink tube if you know how to solder (correctly).
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Thank you for the tips. It is my first time installing head unit.
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Just wondering. Can I just connect the wire from the head unit socket directly to this empty female socket? Instead of joining wire to wire like in the picture. Is there any pros and cons
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Indeed, you are capable. greater labor means greater room for error, in my opinion. The precise pins and a specialized crimping tool are required. Not that it’s insurmountably tough or anything, but I’d go ahead and take the photo instead of the connections.
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The crimping tool isn’t that special, the iWiss is like $40 and comes with extra jaws that will handle most of what is ever needed in car stereo.
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Crimped butt splices: how to solder them? Never previously has it been necessary to use a crimped splice; I’ve done it on terminals where the other end was open and accessible. Are you attempting to feed the solder up the insulation of the wire while heating the center?
In order to flow solder into the wires, you need a crimper that can penetrate the connection. In order to solder the exposed conductor onto the butt connection, you must first gently remove the insulation. The purpose of this is not to improve signal clarity or make a poor splice; rather, it is to provide strength to the crimp so that the strands aren’t stretched too thin in the event that it becomes bent over time.
Over the last decade, I’ve focused on electrical design and research for industrial applications. During that period, I soldered hundreds of butt connector splices, then wrapped them with shrink tubing after crimping them. The butt connection splices in the electrical backbone/harnesses that I created have never failed, and neither have they withstood hundreds of hours of operation in extreme conditions.
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Great work. As for myself, I’ve done comparable work in the past. To my knowledge, no crimpers have ever purposefully broken the splice. Whenever I did that, it was seen as a failure on my part. This often indicated that the crimp was applied too forcefully or that the crimpers needed to be adjusted due to incorrect calibration. It seems that our perspectives are divergent. Very minor 
Your explanation makes sense to me as well.
As far as GM is concerned, the DMX7 comes with adaptor connections. If you want to do it properly, you can solder from there.