I just started putting together my own sound system, and I have a few questions that I hope you can answer.
I want a 1200rms speaker and have been looking at 1200–1500w amps. I don’t mind setting it to get the right sound. But the problem is with my car’s power system. Since my car’s generator only has 75 amps, it might not like having all 1200w pulled. My question is whether the sound quality would drop too far if I only set it to, say, 500–700w.
My next question is whether a 1200w 15" would drown out the sound from my door speakers or tweeters if they are not connected to an amp. Before I bought them, I didn’t know that my head unit could only pull 25rms from them. But they’re only recommended for 20 to 40 years old. Would it even be worth it to try to boost the door speakers to get a little extra power? Or could that be fixed by adjusting the head unit?
Last question: will a 15" wheel fit my Subaru? If it gets too loud, I don’t want the door speakers to break, the furniture to shake, or my windows to break (does that really happen?).
I’d like to get a 12”, but since I have the room, I decided to get a 15”. That way, I won’t feel the need to change later, and it will only cost me about $100 to $200 more to buy the 15 now than to buy a whole new setup later.
Sent out the same picture to get attention. Hate the game, not the person.
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I just started putting together my own sound system, and I have a few questions that I hope you can answer.
I want a 1200rms speaker and have been looking at 1200–1500w amps. I don’t mind setting it to get the right sound. But the problem is with my car’s power system. Since my car’s generator only has 75 amps, it might not like having all 1200w pulled. My question is whether the sound quality would drop too far if I only set it to, say, 500–700w.
My next question is whether a 1200w 15" would drown out the sound from my door speakers or tweeters if they are not connected to an amp. Before I bought them, I didn’t know that my head unit could only pull 25rms from them. But they’re only recommended for 20 to 40 years old. Would it even be worth it to try to boost the door speakers to get a little extra power? Or could that be fixed by adjusting the head unit?
Last question: will a 15" wheel fit my Subaru? If it gets too loud, I don’t want the door speakers to break, the furniture to shake, or my windows to break (does that really happen?).
I’d like to get a 12”, but since I have the room, I decided to get a 15”. That way, I won’t feel the need to change later, and it will only cost me about $100 to $200 more to buy the 15 now than to buy a whole new setup later.
Sent out the same picture to get attention. Hate the game, not the person.
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I understand what you mean. I’m afraid I don’t like it lol. That’s why I came here, though. To be honest, I don’t really want to update the door speakers again. I should think about getting something smaller, like the 300w 12, instead of the 15, even though I wanted it for the air flow. I wouldn’t mind not having it, though. Also, the battery needs to be upgraded before anything else.
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That means a 1500-watt rms amp can only draw 109 amps at most. That will only happen if you run a test tone sine wave. You will need 150 amps in total, plus maybe 40 amps for your car. This is just a guess, but I don’t think you’ll need to buy a HO generator. Most likely, there is an OEM increase around 155 amps. That’s the same size as the generator that came with my car. Just know this: Don’t jump in until you’ve thought of all your choices.
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Are you saying that it will need to be improved anyway? Or do you think it could use some work and that there are cheaper options?
It looks like the later Foresters (up to 09’) will fit, so I can get up to 120amp. However, I saw some 220amp on eBay for only $250.
Could you tell me how the 1200w rms speaker would sound if I tuned it to about 500w rms until I could get a better alternator? The bigger cone won’t cost much more than the big box 12" setup I wanted, so I don’t see why not use it to move more air. For the sub, I’m getting a ported box that has a bit more space than the minimum sqft rate.
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If your sub has an amplifier, it may or may not come with a switch. You can make the necessary changes with the knob so that you don’t drown out the music. You might also want to start with the sub. If you think your speakers need more power, you can then
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I had already upgraded the door speakers because one of them was broken from the last owner. What is a screw for? Bass? Gain? Thanks for your review.
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It would be a volume knob. I believe most skar amps come with one. If you look at different amps it’ll probably be referenced as a remote bass knob
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That makes sense. But if it’s only hooked up to the sub, it would be more of a level thing.