(Subinstall with power) I’m sure it wouldn’t change anything, but I wanted to make sure. All I wanted to make sure was that the connection touches the Styrofoam piece (Powered sub install). Just to be safe, I wanted to make sure that the link touches the Styrofoam piece. I’m sure it won’t hurt it.
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If you don’t want the part to touch the foam, you can use acid-free silicon or hot glue to seal the link and keep water out.
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As long as the wire is properly connected to the terminal ur chillin
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For extra points, add a flat and lock screw.
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There are some things that could cause the wire and junction to get a little warm, but it will still work.
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Your wire should be big enough to handle the current being sent through it, and there shouldn’t be any bad connections or shorts. If there are none of those things, it shouldn’t get warm at all. If the wire gets warm, you either used a cable that is too small or there is a serious problem (high resistance) somewhere.
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Your wire should be big enough to handle the current being sent through it, and there shouldn’t be any bad connections or shorts. If there are none of those things, it shouldn’t get warm at all. If the wire gets warm, you either used a cable that is too small or there is a serious problem (high resistance) somewhere.
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That’s fine as long as that panel is connected to the frame close, which it most likely is. To be safe, make sure there’s nothing like that between your anchor spot and the rest of the body. Some cars have a rubber seal that goes around the back wheel well.
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Everything is fine. In those situations, I like to put a small piece of dead mat over my grounds, but that’s just for looks.
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That part shouldn’t get hot unless the wire is too small. There’s nothing wrong with the foam. I think it looks a little thin, but if it’s a powered sub that stands alone, I think it’s only a few hundred watts.