RCAs and remote wire run on the right side of the car, power on the left. (Bundled one loom on each side)
I know this isn’t high-end stuff, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out without spending a lot of money.
I was careful not to modify anything on the car during the install.
All wires are routed through the sills alongside factory wiring and nothing is under the carpet.
Headunit: Pioneer MixTrax AVH-X490BS
Running 2 Skar 10 IX DVC 4 ohm (200 RMS 400 Max) in a slanted box tuned to 35HZ wired to a final 4-ohm load
All 4 corners: CT sounds BIO coaxial 6.5 50w RMS (100 max)
Looks great, man. Someone might give you grief about mounting the amps on the box, but you said you didn’t want to leave any marks in the car. It’s your car, so it’s your choice.
One thing to improve: try using the same covering for all your wires. The speaker wires from the Nakamichi amp look the cleanest. If you cover all of them the same, it will hide the different wire colors too.
Also, fix the Sony’s remote wire so it isn’t pulled over like that, and put the cover back on the Sony amp. I’m nitpicking though. Great job, man.
@Jay
Yeah, I’ve already loomed the other two and swapped the ground to white on the Sony. It’s just left bare right now to show how I routed it.
I only ran one remote wire and split it at the end to save space in the RCA/remote bundle, so that’s why it’s a bit awkward. Easy fix though.
As for mounting the amps on the box, I think it’s the most secure option. I used dime-sized rubber pads where the screws are to prevent leakage and vibration. There’s also plenty of space behind the seats for cooling (though I doubt it’s really needed based on the output).
@Jay
Is there any material that can be used to dampen vibrations for an amp mounted on the box? It would save a lot of space in smaller trunk setups. I’m torn between building an amp wall or box mounting since my trunk is small.
@Kai
The car’s in my profile. It’s a 1996 Celica ST that’s been in the family since it was brand new. It’s at 37k miles now. I even bagged and labeled all the original screws in case I want to put it back to stock.
LPF is set to 120HZ for the sub.
The front and rear HPF are set to 110HZ, and the amp is set to full range with the frequency set through the headunit’s digital signal. This setup sounds the best to me.
Honestly, I’m really happy with the Nakamichi gear. I had a Lexus SC400 with a factory Nakamichi amp, and the sound was super clear.
It’s definitely worth the $40. The sound quality and build seem solid. I’m happy with the price.
@Kai
110HZ won’t push your speakers too hard, so it should be loud and clear.
I don’t mind discounted Nakamichi gear. Would have bought more if I didn’t already have a dozen amps laying around. I just don’t fry them as much as I used to.
Anyone who got those amps got a good deal. There are still some amps, speakers, and headunits on sale, and they’re dirt cheap.
I don’t really like the idea of the amp being mounted on the sub, shaking around and possibly causing some internal connections to come loose. But if it works, it works, I guess.
Harper said:
I don’t really like the idea of the amp being mounted on the sub, shaking around and possibly causing some internal connections to come loose. But if it works, it works, I guess.
I put rubber pads behind the mounting holes and screwed into them. The rubber dampens the vibrations and keeps most of the amp’s surface area from touching the back of the box.
